Ireland, in hindsight › Heritage pubs

Heritage pubs worth going out of your way for

Hand-picked by a local: thatched pubs, pub-grocers (a bar and shop in one) and old snugs. Separate from the visitor rankings. Check opening hours before you travel.

DublinBelfastGalwayCorkKillarney

Dublin & east

The Brazen Head

Dublin

Said to date from 1178; Joyce and Collins drank here

Directions

Doheny & Nesbitt

Dublin

Victorian snugs, dark wood

Directions

Gravediggers (John Kavanagh's)

Glasnevin, Dublin

Same family since 1833, beside the cemetery, no music or TV

Directions

JJ Hough's Singing Pub

Banagher, Offaly

Vine-covered cottage on the Shannon, nightly traditional music

Directions

Johnnie Fox's

Glencullen, Dublin

One of Ireland's highest pubs, clutter and open fires

Directions

Kehoe's

Dublin

Original snug and old grocer counter

Directions

Killeen's

Shannonbridge, Offaly

Pub-grocer on the Shannon, traditional music sessions

Directions

Kyteler's Inn

Kilkenny

Medieval inn tied to a 1324 witch trial

Directions

The Long Hall

Dublin

Victorian mirrored bar and snugs

Directions

Morrissey's

Abbeyleix, Laois

Pub-grocer that feels like 1900, pot-belly stove

Directions

Mulligan's

Dublin

Since 1782, famous pint, no frills

Directions

Ó Riada's

Kilkenny

Small old-style bar on Parliament Street, traditional music sessions, no TV

Directions

O'Connell's

Skryne, Meath

Unchanged for generations; from the Guinness Christmas ad

Directions

Sean's Bar

Athlone, Westmeath

Claims to be the world's oldest pub (c. 900 AD)

Directions

The Thatch

Crinkill, Offaly

Thatched, same family for two centuries

Directions

Toner's

Dublin

Old grocer's counter and drawers, snug

Directions

Tynan's Bridge House

Kilkenny

Old grocer bar by the river

Directions

South

De Barra's

Clonakilty, Cork

Famous folk music pub

Directions

Dick Mack's

Dingle, Kerry

Old leather shop and pub, snugs

Directions

Foxy John's

Dingle, Kerry

Pub inside a working hardware shop

Directions

Kate Kearney's Cottage

Gap of Dunloe, Kerry

Old coaching inn at the start of the Gap walk

Directions

Ma Murphy's

Bantry, Cork

Old shop-front pub-grocer

Directions

Mary Ann's

Castletownshend, Cork

1840s pub in a tiny harbour village

Directions

The Old Thatch

Killeagh, Cork

Thatched, same family since 1667

Directions

South Pole Inn

Annascaul, Kerry

Opened by Antarctic explorer Tom Crean

Directions

T&H Doolan's

Waterford

Said to date from about 1400, Norman-built walls

Directions

West

Durty Nelly's

Bunratty, Clare

Beside the castle, said to date from 1620

Directions

Gus O'Connor's

Doolin, Clare

Famous traditional music pub

Directions

Matt Molloy's

Westport, Mayo

Owned by The Chieftains' flute player, nightly traditional music

Directions

McGann's

Doolin, Clare

Smaller, cosier traditional music pub

Directions

Morahan's

Ballinagare, Roscommon

Same family since 1641

Directions

Moran's Oyster Cottage

Kilcolgan, Galway

Thatched, oysters, over 250 years old

Directions

O'Loclainn's

Ballyvaughan, Clare

Tiny whiskey bar, 500+ bottles

Directions

Paddy's Bar

Terryglass, Tipperary

Lough Derg village, open fire, near 200 years old

Directions

The Thatch Bar

Adare, Limerick

1700s thatch, traditional music

Directions

Tig Cóilí

Galway

Trad sessions twice daily

Directions

Tigh Neachtain

Galway

Old painted front, snugs, traditional music sessions

Directions

Vaughan's

Kilfenora, Clare

Set-dancing and traditional music in a Burren village

Directions

North-west

Anderson's Thatch

near Carrick-on-Shannon, Leitrim

Tavern since 1734, rare rye-straw thatch

Directions

The Beach Bar

Aughris, Sligo

Thatched cottage on the beach

Directions

Ellen's Pub

Maugherow, Sligo

Said to date from 1610, rough-and-ready traditional music pub

Directions

Hargadon's

Sligo

Old grocer snugs, sloping floors

Directions

The Rusty Mackerel

Teelin, Donegal

At the foot of Slieve League

Directions

The Singing Pub

Downings, Donegal

Thatched, fire, weekly traditional music

Directions

Teach Hiúdaí Beag

Bunbeg, Donegal

Irish-speaking pub, weekly sessions

Directions

Northern Ireland

Crosskeys Inn

Toomebridge, Antrim

Said to be Ireland's oldest thatched pub (1654)

Directions

Crown Liquor Saloon

Belfast, Antrim

Victorian gas-lit snugs, National Trust

Directions

Grace Neill's

Donaghadee, Down

Title deeds from 1611

Directions

House of McDonnell

Ballycastle, Antrim

Old pub-grocer, same family since 1766

Directions

Kelly's Cellars

Belfast, Antrim

Since 1720, traditional music sessions

Directions

Picked by a local. Opening hours change, especially in winter, so check before you travel. Know a pub that belongs here? darren@irelandinhindsight.com